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| 996 FAQ |
Aluminum pedals are both an attractive addition to the cockpit and, for some, allow better heel and toe operation.
What is Heel & Toeing?
The idea of this technique is to match engine speed to the changing of gears. For example, if you are approaching a corner and need to change down, simply braking and changing gear can often mean that the engine is running a bit too slowly for the optimal speed for the next gear selected (3rd to 2nd, for example). The result is that the engine slows even further as the car "engine brakes".
A better way is to somehow "blip" the gas just before completing the downshift and while continuing to brake. Blipping raises the revs to a point that is better matched to the next gear, giving that gear all the revs it needs to continue your speed (or launch you onward after the corner). Perfectly matching engine speed results in very smooth shifting, without clunks or engine braking, and can also allow quicker entry and exit from race course corners. Heel & Toeing isn't just for down-shifting - it can also be used during up-shifts, particularly if you have allowed the engine speed to creep a little low for the gear you're currently in.
So how do you blip the gas? The answer, of course, is heel and toeing.
There are broadly two schools of technique for this, both of which should be practiced and perfected in a safe area before graduating to the road. The first method is to use the ball of the foot (some would say the lower part or even the middle of the foot) on the brake pedal, while swivling the ankle to blip the gas to just the right point for the gear with the heel. Using the upper ball of the foot, placed in the center of the brake, may for many put the heel too low on the gas pedal for this method to work properly. This is the "old fashioned" method - old fashioned because in the early days of pedal set ups, this was the only way to blip the gas.
The other method is really using the sides of the foot - the left side firmly on the brake and the right overhanging to the gas pedal. When depressed under decent braking, the brake pedal is roughly the same height as the gas pedal, which makes things easy. The 996's pedals are designed to do this, although some have complained it this method only works well under heavier braking, which spoils the fun in every day "normal" driving.
Pedals
Suppliers include: Techart (www.techart.de/homee.htm) , NR Auto (www.nrauto.com), OMP (various suppliers, including Northstar) and Tech-efx (www.tech-efx.com). There is also a device called the Third Foot which has been used by at least one of our group - it is a bolt on (no drilling) gas pedal that is wider than normal (Wings Engineering LLC, CT, USA, Tel 202-438 2222; although I always got a busy signal when I tried.)
The Techart pedals are nice but expensive ($300 + I believe). It looks as though both the NR and Tech-efx pedals are essentially reworked Techart pedals and the Tech-efx run about the same in price. The OMP pedals are heavier and include a lip to help prevent your right foot from getting caught under the brake pedal when under pressure, as well as a rugged texture on the surface to prevent slipping. They run at about $40-50. A reasonably good picture can be found at www.ompracing.it . They're not bad and raise the height of the pedals very slightly. For me at least they haven't significantly improved my ability to heel and toe - but then I am a novice...
The addition of aluminum gauges is a popular option or upgrade. Some have said that at night the crispness of aftermarket illuminated gauges isn't quite as good as stock. However this is not something that has greatly irritated those who have installed them. Here is Howard Groveman's guide to installing NR Auto gauges:
"NR Aluminum Instrument Faces
www.nrauto.com or call (800) 225-3498 Estimated Cost: $299 - be sure to specify 6-speed or Tip
Here is a real quick run-through on them install (about 2 hours including testing if you really take your time). Technical difficulty: moderately easy. I didn't disconnect the battery but it has been suggested that one do this. If you disconnect the battery, be sure to have the radio code handy when the battery gets reconnected.
1. Carefully make a diagram of all instruments and note the needle locations in the OFF, ignition switch on, and idling condition. Don't run the car long enough to affect engine temperature, or this needle will be hard to set.
2. Remove the "floating" dashboard which contains the instruments. This is accomplished by removing just two T-20 long torx screws. One is under the microphone circle at the left side and one is under the emergency flasher switch. The microphone circle can be removed by taking a paper clip and making a small 1/8" hook on the end with a longnose pliers. Insert the hook through one of the central slits, rotate and pull it right off. The emergency switch pulled out with a fingernail to start and then firm pulling and very gentle rocking with 2 fingers. Two parts fall out - the switch button and housing. You now have access to the two torx screws. The left screw was unscrewed and then retrieved with a magnetic-tipped tool so it didn't drop into the cluster. The right screw is a no-brainer. Now lift up on the floating dashboard and it pops off.
3. Remove the blue, white and black connectors from the back of the instrument cluster by depressing the connector latch and flipping its plastic cover all the way up. All 3 connectors are identical except for color. Remove two more T-20 torx screws from behind the floating dash which hold the instrument cluster on. Bring the instrument cluster to a towel covered workbench. At this point I flipped over the floating dash in the car onto a towel on the dashboard to get it out of the way for future testing of just the instruments. I never removed the connector from the emergency flasher switch.
4. The cluster has a front and back half. It needs to be split open. There are 3 obvious tabs that hold it together, as well as 2 metal slide clips. Remove the two clips and pop open the 3 tabs. The case now wants to open completely, but there is one hidden attachment at the central top which requires the insertion and a gentle twist of a flatblade screwdriver. If you study the thing, the point to do this will become obvious. Voila - its open.
5. Follow the NR instructions to remove the needles with the supplied tool which looks like a modified tent stake. Be sure the undersurface of the tool is smooth with no sharp edges to avoid scratching the faces (either sand or cover the underside with masking tape as a precaution). The needles basically pop off if pulled out straight (the tool allows you to do this without exerting sideways forces). Peel off the old faces and replace them with the new ones one at a time. Remove any glue left from the old face by using some scotch tape as a blotter. This worked perfectly. Remove the backing from the new face and do not press firmly until it is in perfect alignment. When done, reattach the needles only halfway.
6. VERY carefully attach the opened instrument portion to the three connectors and test for proper needle location. I actually did a small test drive at this point before pushing the needles down fully. Get a passenger to hold the floating dash so you don't mar the finishes. I found that I had to realign a couple of the needles 2 or more times to get all back to normal. Test that the idle RPM's are OK and match the MPH readings between the digital and analog dials. When pushing the needles down, use the NR tool as a "stop" or "spacer" so that you don't push the needle down so far down that it hits the dial. Make sure that you are happy with all readings before proceeding. I also brought my engine up to full temp and made sure the needle was where it always is.
7. Once again, disconnect the 3 connectors (you will be a pro by now) and reaassemble the cluster halves. Then, simply follow the above instructions in reverse order and you are finished."
The dreaded console hinge break! At the time of writing, it is not clear that there has been a good fix for this problem, a problem which has afflicted many 996 owners. It is replaceble under warranty. (There are also reports of similar breakages with the sun visors.)
There is an after-market replacement which few have bought to date so there is no opinion yet on its merits. It is usually advertised in Excellence and Panorama and features a raised height, more storage, and an optional cup holder. Bird Automotive, CT, USA, Tel: 203 834 1119.
For cup holders, check out www.javagrip.com and possibly www.automotion.com.
The standard 4 spoke steering is not as elegant as some would like and lacks a nice Porsche crest in its center. A number of option items are available, including the standard 3 spoke (with crested airbag, thumb bumps, but lacking a nice leather feel) and a range of leather covered, burl wood, and other variations. These latter steering wheels are particularly nice (especially those with leather airbag cover) but can be pricey and may, in some cases, delay your order.
There is little information at this time about aftermarket steering wheels but buying a replacement from Porsche Tequipment naturally will be expensive (as I discovered after my dealer swapped steering wheels on my car before selling it to me). By the way, the airbag is classified as Hazmat - some won't ship these to you should you choose to buy from a non-local dealer or parts supplier.
Even with the HiFi package, the Porsche sound system is not special. The good news is that it seems to be relatively easy to re-wire for your kick-ass after-market gear if you get the HiFi package and take out a bunch of the speakers and components. This is only an FAQ and cannot cover any significant ground on this subject but...
For a relatively small investment it seems that a good way to go is to keep the door speakers and bass enclosures and up-grade the rest of the speakers to MB Quart, a/d/s, or some other high quality provider. The door speakers can of course be replaced too - 6 and 1/2 inch woofers have fitted the stock opening for the 5 and 1/2 inch speakers, although some have had difficulty doing this. This change alone has been reported to make a huge difference.
Moving up a level, a custom made 8 inch MB Quart sub woofer box can fit neatly into the passenger side footwell without taking up any significant foot space. This will require cutting the floormat.
Going a step further, folks have swapped out the amp, with various choices again here, such as the McIntosh MCC 446 6-way amplifier (with CH 5 & 6 bridged for the sub) or the a/d/s P840 (about $850).
When moving to this stage, be sure that you are working with a top-notch installer. Alternator whine is a widely reported problem.
If you live on the West Coast, Sacramento area preferably, Rod Birch (RodB@caraudioinnovations.com) is worth checking out. He has a good reputation on the RennList for installs on older model 911's. When I last corresponded with him, he was keen to test his skills on the 996 and offered special pricing for the priviledge. http://www.caraudioinnovations.com . Also, Paris Audio in Beverly Hills is reported to produce top notch results and has worked on a number of 996's (see below).
As a very, very rough guide guide to "basic" upgrade costs:
If installing a Becker CD Changer, you might find the following useful to your install: Gary Samad's Boxster 6-Disc CD Changer Installation Manual.
Todd Serota has this to say about his own upgrades:
"Here are the details of my system, all put in by Paris Audio in Beverly Hills (310-289-8494):
If I may say so myself, the system does sound amazing - well worth it. It's pretty much as good as or better than any home system I've ever had, and I was a bit of an audiophile in my younger days. [Ed: Another Board member has confirmed that Todd's system is extremely good. Todd regularly drives his Cab roof down and the audio still sounds killer.]
As for the upgrade, I went through the exact same decision process. In my case, I talked to Paris first, and Jamey (the owner) told me not to bothe spend ing the $600 [for the HiFi option] , because for a lot less, he would make custom enclosures to fit into the holes in the front of the doors that come with the stock system. That's what I did, and I'm glad I saved my money. The subs sound great, and the install is awesome - just some fine black cloth in an oval shape in the door.
Now in your case, it depends on what you're stereo shop is capable of doing. If you're going to have them put in your system, and they're telling you to get the upgrade, that tells me that they don't have anything like what Paris did, and therefore you should take their advice.
If you have any other questions, other than how much it all cost, let me know. It was done as a package with a number of other things (radar detector hard wire, Nokia phone install, Clifford alarm install and K-40 laser diffuser install), so I don't know the breakdown for just the audio stuff.
Todd Serota: tserota@primenet.com (home) tserota@vinoquest.com (wine business)"
Like the audio stuff, navigation systems are supplied by various companies and there is little consensus yet on the winning equipment. They are of course very cool and particularly useful for roaming sales or consultant types or for those not brought up in the States, like myself, and who still have difficulty with this whole North, South, East and West thing...! We hope to bring you information soon on how to install one of these units..
There is plenty of debate about the various makes and merits of radar detectors. Consensus seems to focus on two brands: the Valentine 1 and the K-40 (the concealed unit with laser diffuser for the number plate). It seems to be generally acknowledged that the V-1 gives greater range of protection but at the cost of poor (or almost zero) concealability. The K-40 seems to offer almost complete concealability but a lower range (as yet undefined) and apparently more false alarms.
It is very important to have the K-40's displays in a suitable position - usually towards the center of the main gauges. Some have reported not being able to see these displays due to poor installation.
There have been many ingenious hard-wired installations of the V-1, a unit which lends itself particularly well to this. TWe hope to be able to bring you suggestions on how to do this in the near future.
From Eric Sklut, Charlotte, NC, here is his advice on the K-40:
"K-40 makes a tremendous installation package for the Porsche. There is no need to drill anything in the car, firewall, trunk areas or instrument cluster. There are a number of K-40 products on the market, all of which must be installed by a certified K-40 installer in your area. My choice was a complete undetectable system with Laser Defuser. This includes modules in the front and rear of the vehicle, laser transmitter in the front grille, speaker in the front dash underside, and visible LEDs below the instrument cluster. Keep in mind that "undetectable" in this case means invisible. It may not be invisible to VG2 detector detectors in states that use them. To make this work, the installation takes a full day. Wires are run from the inside of the vehicle through the trunk panels (removing the liner) and through holes in the driver's side headlight cavity. The light is removed during installation. The front sensors for wideband radar can be mounted inside the front bumper, or can reside in any general area in the front end of the car. The modules are weathertight. The Laser Defuser must be in a cleared visible area - therefore we placed it in the lower center opening of the front grille. It is black and is only visible as you get within 5 feet of the car. It transmits laser and "fools" the laser gun into getting a scanning error.
Picture of Laser Defuser in front grille.
The rear sensors can be placed inside the bumper or inside one of the light lenses. The lenses are much larger than the bulbs which light them, and the modules are quite small. Again, no drilling as there are enough extra holes to bring the wiring harnesses through. Once completed, the on/off/hwy/city/volume switch is mounted. It can be placed nearly anywhere, though having it "unseen" is important. There is an outer ring with three notched positions for city-off-highway, then the center knob controls volume. I chose to mount mine under the dash, just left of the steering column, and forward of the kneebar. I have to lean forward but can easily reach it. After a few tries, I got the hang of which position it needed to go in, and can easily reset it whenever needed.
Picture of barely visible remote switch just below kneebar, under steering column.
The speaker is located on the underside of the driver's dash area. The LED's can be placed anywhere, but it's best to have them in the line of sight of the instrument cluster. In the 996 (and possibly the same in the Boxster), these lights are small enough to reside just under the two outer lower corners of the cluster, just below the warning lights. There are convenient nooks right there to place both lights. The leads from these red LED's will slide behind for easy wiring to the system. You may choose to also include the green LED (on/off) and/or the yellow LED (city/hwy). It is not necessary. I use only the two RED LED's (left one = front, right one = rear). I know the system is on and armed when I start the car.
Picture of LED location.
There are numerous options with these lights including a small black bracket in which the lights can be mounted. The bracket is then attached to the lower dash in a visible spot. Installers can guide the selection depending on each customer's wishes. K-40 guarantees all tickets within the first year. The cost of the system is not cheap, and is nothing at all in the range of glass mounted detectors (V-1 @ $399). Typical complete K-40 systems like the above average $1200 - $1500 installed. Contact K-40 for details: www.k40.com "
Also from Eric:
"Installation of cellphones in the Porsche is a breeze. There are numerous choices for both analog and digital. TechArt ( www.techart.de/homee.htm ) which is represented by CEC in the US ( www.cecwheels.com ) offers a mounting piece that attaches to the right of the lower storage compartment of the center/upper console. Phones can easily mount to this.
Pictures - TechArt phone console www.techart.de/bilder/k_5.jpg
On my installation, the installer used a flat brass mounting plate that was custom formed just for the cradle of my low profile analog phone. First remove the side covers of the lower storage boxes. The front cover over the lower storage boxes (top for tape/cd shelf, bottom open) can be pulled off easily by grabbing the center shelf and pulling gently side to side then straight out. Inside the existing framework should be at least one screw hole to which this bracket can be attached. The bracket was drilled once fitted, then mounted to this hole. It's a very tight fit and low profile so as not to damage the interior surfaces. The faceplate of the storage compartments is then carefully placed back on. On the outer end of the bracket two holes were drilled to accommodate my cradle. Since each phone is different, the installer will need to use trial and error. Instead of the included hands-free mic located left of the instrument cluster, we opted for one elsewhere. The factory location may be OK for some, but most will find it to be not the best location. Therefore, we drilled out one of the blanks beside the a/c controls console. If you have navigation, these controls are the same location on the driver's side of the nav system console. The hands free mic from the phone was then disassembled. Mine is about the size of a #2 pencil eraser, and is black. By drilling the blank we found a perfect solution. The mic is placed right behind the blank and sits in a small hole that was drilled into the blank, and since it's all black, no one can see. It's also a bit closer to the driver, and lower, and more likely to transmit easier, even with the convertible top down. Since this was an analog installation, we used an external antenna supplied by Hirschmann. They make nearly every European vehicle hidden cellphone antenna on the market, and have a US distribution arm in New Jersey (800 225 0524 x330). They should have digital products available to enhance digital phone transmission also. We mounted the Hirschmann product inside the front bumper. Again, wiring openings exist so there is no drilling needed. The antenna consists of two rubber like pads about 3" x 3" each connected by two cables, with a lead to the phone. The pads can be glued in place, or can be mounted easily within the confines of the interior of the bumper with minimal work. The Porsche radios offer a mute feature if your phone sends a ground signal when active. The ground wire attaches to a wiring plug at the back of the radio. If you pull out the lower storage boxes from the center/upper console, the wiring plugs/harnesses are within easy reach. Use your phone wiring diagram for the proper connection. Once correctly wired, when a call is activated, the radio will mute, will display PHONE on the faceplate, and the sound will come through the front speakers. This phone installation provides absolutely the cleanest, least destructive installation for the Porsche.
Garage Opener:
Depending on your remote opener, you should be able to accomplish this quite easily. 12-volt openers work perfectly. Contact the service company or manufacturer of your garage door opener. Many have small remotes that work best in this installation. On the driver's side, beside the light switch, you will find an oval "plate." This is used in many countries for light leveling devices. Since it is not used in the US market, this plate is blank. Your installer can do this, or you can try this yourself. Using a very small "pick" tool (a tiny version of an awl), gently pry off the oval plate. Be very careful not to damage the plate. It should come off very easily. Pushbutton switches and LEDs are available at any hobby store. You can buy them or your installer can provide. We took the circuit board of my 12-volt opener, removed it from the remote, and soldered the battery contacts to insulated wire leads. The circuit that lights the internal LED on the remote was bypassed, with leads running to the new LED in the oval plate. The wiring and circuit board were then tucked into the cavity behind the oval plate. If yours won't fit, place it in any area of the lower dash behind the manual holder, near the firewall. Run the leads to the fuse panel from there. Ours is set up so that the ignition must be in the "on" position in order to activate. The oval plate was drilled with two holes - one for the pushbutton, one for the LED. Some pushbuttons will have to be taken apart to fit properly in this small space, and you won't need the top nut to tighten it to the plate - that would look tacky. Find the smallest pushbuttons you can. Ones that have a screw-down neck work best. When you activate the pushbutton, the red LED will light up telling you the switch is getting power, and the garage door should activate.
Picture of the setup.
There are plenty of troubleshooting steps to make this work. First, location of the circuit board is critical. If the signal can't get out, the door won't activate. We encapsulated the board with a zip-loc type bag and tried placing it near the battery compartment in the front trunk. It worked, but did not have the distance capability. We then pulled it back into the interior and placed it next to the firewall. It gave us better distance, but not the best. The best location ended up being right behind the oval plate/vent cavity. This allows the signal to escape near the front glass. Distance is greater than 30 feet. Second, rolling code or learning code remotes are tricky. You will need your manual from the garage door opener to do this properly. Training the remote before you install is best. Remember this, there are plenty of other garage opener products on the market. Home-Link is one of the largest vendors to the automotive industry, and they make a number of other options that might work best for you. There are other hacks that use blank switches in the Porsche as well. This installation was a simple, easy, and inexpensive option, and no one knows it's there! "
Eric has a web site which you might want to check out:
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Factory/4822/Erics996.html
[Ed: There's also an explanation, with pictures, of something similar to this install at http://www.boxsey.com/. Check under Projects.]
Contrary to early popular belief (and some erroneous comments from someone quoted in Excellence magazine), chipping the 996 is quite possible and if done by a tuner of repute is unlikely to do anything nasty to the engine. There are a number of providers but unfortuantely at this time all but one of them require a hard chip replacment rather than an upload of refreshed parameters. But I'm getting ahead of myself. But why touch the computer at all? In short, when setting standard tuning parameters, any car manufacturer has to take account of fuel efficiency requirements, emmissions standards, and a wide variety of altitude, gas/petrol grade, air temperature and other considerations. The result is an engine which is not ideally mapped for performance. Re-mapping can give significant increases in both HP and torque - typically between 15-20HP over stock at the wheels. With intake and exhaust changes, this can be as high a gain as 30HP. (Note: OBDII is adaptive to driving styles. This can make dyno testing/comparison difficult, if not scientifically impossible.)
What you're playing with is variously called the DME or OBDII (not to be confused with the OBC - On Board Computer - which is an option for gas mileage, speed gongs, etc.). As mentioned, most tuners are pulling out the tuning parameters chip and replacing it with another set more aggressively. Typically you have to send the unit in to get this done (unless you fancy yourself adept with soldering and fine pitch surface mounted electronics but watch out, screwing this up means your car is dead until you can get another replacement chip). If you're really lucky, you might have one of these tuners near to where you live and it may be possible to tune your actual engine rather than getting a vanilla upgrade. Vendors include: Protomotive (recommended to me by Jim Conforti, who is widely considered to be the best BMW tuner), Fabspeed (of Fabspeed exhaust fame), Gemballa, and others.
Not quite here yet is the ability to simply plug into the OBDII unit and upload the new settings semi-permanently. It can be done in other car marques but sadly not the 996. The closest so far is the PROgram from The Racers Group. (Fabspeed, above, also provides this, as well as traditional chip replacements). This is a piggy-back arrangement where a device sits between the engine feedback data and the OBDII unit giving the engine revised and optimized mappings. There seem to be several reported adavantages:
Steve Weiner, of Rennsport Systems, had this to say about the PROgram (Note: Rennsport provides its own chip replacements, so I guess is a competitor to TRG's PROgram and Fabspeed):
"Indeed, gasoline is a variable based upon location and state laws where you live. For example, 93 octane fuel is not available here in the Pacific NW, 92 is max. The only fuel you can buy that has more octane is racing gasoline. I'm not sure about California but with the advent of reformulated gasoline in that state, they are close...
In a perfect world, one could dial in a timing or fuel curve that would provide better power everywhere in the RPM range, under all conditions. Unfortunately, its not that simple. This is one reason why the manufacturers spend millions for R&D to map the engine management system to work under all atmospheric conditions and loads without engine damage from detonation, subaudible or otherwise.
The important thing to bear in mind when arbitrarily changing lambda values or timing numbers is understanding that the engine's threshold of detonation is not a constant, its constantly changing with outside air temperature, air density, cylinder head temperature, engine load, even what gear you are in. Few people know that much about how Porsche maps their OBDI and OBDII cars. Did you know that the amount of available ignition advance changes with which gear you are in and throttle setting? All of the OBDI/OBDII and RSR's have this feature.
I'm quite uncomfortable about setting a timing figure, using a dyno, to peak power without consideration and allowance for the variables listed above. Does one simply dial up the advance and use "Kentucky Windage" to dial it back a little? Every engine possesses a minimum and maximum ignition advance value that works for that design. As an example, the big bore air-cooled 911's prefer timing in the 32-36 degree range using single-ignition. Twin-plug engines run best between 25-29 degrees. With cold or cool cylinder heads, you can observe a higher power reading with a little more advance before the heads heat up and the power sags off with the onset of detonation. If one is going to experiment with such devices, observing and interpreting cylinder head temperatures is a must.
Having the ability to program a known timing and fuel number in a range that, from experience, will work with either race gas or pump fuel is much more desireable than adjusting some knobs on a controller to peak power then backing it off somewhat without empirical information about EXACTLY what those final numbers are.
Programming, making and installing EPROMS to achieve this isn't fun to do, but these are good safe methods, albeit inconvenient to use, in the right hands. Certainly having in-car controller is neat technology and I love such gadgets as much as anybody here, but I would caution anyone who considers this about what you are doing and the consequences of too-little information when adjusting such a device for peak power on any given day.
Everything has its place.
Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland, Oregon 503.244.0990 http://www.rennsportsystems.com/~porsche/ "
Steve further points out that, "This applies only to devices that do not allow specific lambda values and timing advance numbers to be used. Chips, flash or otherwise, from experienced knowledgeable tuners are just fine provided that the re-programming is compatible with the local fuel and the car's mechanical compression ratio. A gentleman wrote some time ago about his 3.8 kit in his 993 that, combined with an existing chip, created a pinging situation that couldn't be resolved. His CR was too high for that chip's programming and pump gasoline."
I could very well be wrong but it seems to me that there is no critical difference between a chip that is a replacement and an interceptor unit. Maybe Steve's final point above is the nub of the matter, although having talked to some suppliers the point is either lost or moot. For me, the most important factor is the TUNER, not so much the tool. If you trust your tuner, inexpert as I am, I do not see there being any significant difference between the parameters being hard-coded on a burnt chip or fed through an independent unit.
Price for any of these upgrades is going to be between $595 if you do the chip install work yourself, to around $1,000/1,200 for the piggy-back unit and tuning. Cheap it ain't but hey, you're getting a whole bunch of return and I can vouch for the amazing difference this can make to flat spots and top end torque/HP. Sometimes a car will feel noticably different but you shouldn't loose any of the 996 smoothness.
I guess you should be aware that there is concern that any significant increase in torque and HP may damage your engine's weaker parts - pistons/camshafts/etc. However, this comes from the same source that said there were no chip upgrades, so who knows if this is for real? Regardless, 20-30HP probably shouldn't be a danger to your car. The issue probably only kicks in when you're adding forced induction.
